TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
since dogs don't come with owner's manuals ...

Problem solving strategies without anthropomorphizing.

USING THE FOLLOWING TOOLS:

There are eight students in your class and you have 40 minutes allotted for intros and behavior discussion - most can be handled in less, especially if you give general behavior answers to the first few, you can relate one to another. Ask the students - "how could we use management to solve this problem?" Remember you don't have to give every aspect of every possible answer to every question in class! Address OBSERVABLE behavior, not imagined intent.

Problems presented (they are almost always the same ones, month after month!):

eats poop/rocks
digs
barks
bites my arms/the kids/grabs my pantlegs/bathrobe
jumps on visitors/the kids/me
chews EVERYthing
pulls on leash
pees/poops in the house

Give a man a fish or teach him how to fish.
If you explain the tools of problem solving instead of applying specific solutions, they will find their own answers - in class and in the future. If you give a specific solution, tell the whole class how you arrived at that solution.

Other contributing factors - using non-anthromoporphizing terms.
(A great resource for knowing which of the following issues might apply will be in their verbal description and on their profiles/scores. Being familiar with their scores will help you determine which to zero in on.)

If you use behavioral terms you will be less wordy, more informative, and take less class time answering. Your one answer will cover many bases, so you need only refer back to previous questions as you answer other student questions and build on their foundation of understanding how dogs view the world and what they need from their owners to be satisfied!

Two answers to the same concern:

Ya know, I know you're not home a lot since you both work long hours, and I know we can't help that we all have to work because that's real life and much as we'd all like to stay home and be Lassie's mom baking cookies, you shouldn't feel guilty about it - but of course we can't help feeling a little guilty, and when we get home from a long day at work we'd all rather just put our feet up and eat dinner without being pestered, but if you could just plan more walks or games into your schedule it would really help ... maybe you could send the kids out to play hide and seek while you make dinner? You don't have any? Are there any kids in your neighborhood? Maybe you could hire a neighborhood kid to walk him or throw a ball for him? Swimming? Or a neighbor who jogs who could take him with them? Or maybe dog daycare? He's wild because he's a teenager and he probably doesn't get enough exercise, it will get better when he gets older but for now you've got your hands full ... I know you probably will have a hard time squeezing it in, but it really is important ... when I was a kid we had a dog ...

- or -

The average adolescent dog requires 20 minutes of aerobic activity per day to get his heart rate up and expend energy. When he doesn't get it, he will have to find an outlet. This means you will see more hyper-active behavior, more mouthing, digging and destructive behaviors when his exercise requirements aren't met. So your goal is to find ways to get him up and moving in constructive ways. A "big yard" or leisurely walk around the block won't do it - he needs to be grinning ear-to-ear and burning calories. You have a sporting breed, these people have herding breeds, this family has a working breed - all of them were bred to do a job and each will have specific games/activities they enjoy most. Your job is to find out what each of your dogs enjoy and be creative in finding ways to make them tired!

Now you've answered at least a portion of the next five people's questions and made it apply to dogs in general, not just the person you were talking to, which shortens your answers as you move on to the next student in the circle.


Your answers!

ANSWERS:

YAY PAT!!
Problem behavior is only a problem to the people. It's normal dog behavior to the dogs.

Dogs repeat behavior that works. Chewing relieves the discomfort of teething. Peeing on the absorbent carpet relieves the pressure in the bladder. If a behavior is being repeated, take a look at what is reinforcing it. It may be that the environment is reinforcing the behavior, such as with digging, which you can tell the dog loves just by watching. It may be that someone in the house is reinforcing the behavior, such as pushing the dog off when she jumps, thus giving the dog the attention she desires.

In finding solutions for problems you are having with your dog, consider exercise first, management second, providing legal outlets for normal dog behavior third, and training an alternate behavior for a lasting solution.

A tired dog is a good dog. Adequate exercise is critical to eliminating behavior problems. Look in your book for suggested legal activities to wear out your dog every day, both physically and mentally.

You can set the dog up for success by managing the dog's environment so that she can't practice the problem behavior,and so get even better at it. Many behaviors show up because the dog has too much freedom and too much time on her paws. Think about what you DO want the dog to do, and help the dog get it right.

Management includes restricting the dog to a safe area, such as a crate, ex-pen, or laundry room with baby gates, or umbilical cording the dog to you by tying the leash around your waist. It also means removing the object causing the problem until the dog has learned something else to do.

Providing legal outlets can mean getting the dog hooked on a variety of chew toys, stuffed kongs and treat balls, playing tug with appropriate rules, and having places where the dog can climb, jump, and dig.

Training an alternate behavior could be sit for petting, come to me when you hear the doorbell ring, or walk near my side rather than pulling. An interrupt/redirect means training a cue such as OVER HERE to mean get right next to me, at which point you can turn the dog's attention to something legal. The latest WDJ has a great article about the positive interrupt in a barking article.

Eats poop/rocks - Manage by cleaning the poop as soon as possible, confining the dog to an area without rock, and/or leaving the dog in the house when you can't watch her. Train a solid LEAVE IT for when you are with her. Teach an interrupt/redirect and provide legal chew toys (and a nutritious diet if the dog is practicing pica to get some missing nutrients). [Carol - is that an old wive's tale?]

Digs - Leave dog in house when you can't redirect. Pick one area the dog is allowed to dig and bury toys and bones there, and redirect all digging energy to that area. Reward for correct digging, and keep it interesting with buried surprises. Sand and snow are a blast to dig in, so take your dog out to experience those environments occasionally.

Barks - Most dogs can be allowed a few barks as an alert. Thank your dog for letting you know. Block views that cause barking to start. Repeat door noises (knocking or doorbell) until dogs don't notice it anymore. Teach a solid interrupt/redirect. Also teaching speak and quiet on cue can work, but may also increase barking if the dog is not inclined to bark often.

Bites my arms/etc - Stop. Remain still and calm. Remove your attention from dog. Instruct kids to do the same. Teach the interrupt/redirect and be prepared with a legal chew toy in your pocket while this behavior is being retrained. Have the dog wear a short leash so you can put them behind a door for a time out, or take yourself out to time out the dog. Moving quickly may cause more biting and clothes tearing, and kids are especially vulnerable. Umbilical cord the dog to an adult while working on this behavior. [Never had to deal with this one - seems tough - will appreciate answers]

Jumps - Instruct everyone to ignore the jumping. Provide them with treats so they can reward the instant there are 4 on the floor. Have the dog wear a short leash so you can set the dog up for success by tethering or standing on the leash when someone comes to the door, usually the cue for an excited greeting. Train with family members and low distractions. Put dog in crate until calm enough to greet nicely. Train SIT for petting.

Chews everything - Manage the environment with appropriate confinement. Provide legal chews and get the dog hooked on them. Generally a stage that will pass, though all dogs need to chew throughout life, so a good legal chew a day should be part of the plan for every dog.

Pulls on leash - Manage the behavior with one of the pieces of special equipment that can help, gentle leaders, easy walk harnesses, and pinch collars. Dogs pull to close the distance to whatever. If you give in and move forward, the behavior will become more entrenched, and this is the common pattern. If the human component never moves when the dog is pulling, the pulling behavior will decrease. Sounds good, difficult to ever get not pulling to be the default. Train and reward heavily for where and how you do want the dog to be walk.

Pees/poops in the house - Ignore mistakes, clean thoroughly with enzyme cleaners. Manage by not allowing the dog to have freedom to learn the wrong places to go. Put the dog on leash and take her out to the designated spot first thing in the morning, after eating, play sessions, naps, more frequently for younger pups. Wait in one place until the dog goes, then reward. If dog doesn't go, back into the crate or other management setup. Be patient. Young pups do not have the muscle control to hold it. Manage until more maturity is reached.

and Nancy Royse:

I think this assignment was the perfect length, and very practical. I really liked the way you structured this topic. Looking at these common behaviors (which are mostly normal dog behaviors), by using the three tools, and challenging the handlers to look at the function of the behavior is very practical and efficient. Not that we will address that the first week, but that it does help to know why the dog is doing this particular doggie thing. Relating that to the profile and the type of dog it is.

To be more efficient in my answers I will use M to refer to management, IR to refer to interrupt/redirect and T for teach a substitute or alternative behavior

1. Pulls on leash. Seems to be the one almost everyone has.

a. stop each time the dog pulls when on leash (M,I)
b. do "back aways" when they pull on the leash (M, I, T)
c. try using a gentle leader, prong collar, easy walker (M) d. teach them the position you want by using food, verbal marker and eventually clicker (T) Will help to establish leadership

2. Jumping

a. ignore the jumping, turn away, do not respond in any way, wait them out (M, I)
b. when they stop jumping reward and praise and pet (M,R)
c. do this whenever you catch them sitting (T)
d. use the leash as a management tool, don't let people in the house until the leash is on, step on the leash to physically prevent the dog from being able to jump, but the leash is loose for standing, sitting and down.
e. Teach "sit for petting" f. Teach OFF g. Teach Paws up so you have control of both sides of the behavior

3. Chewing

a. two things to do right away, One direct supervision of the dog when they are somewhere in the house where there are things that they want to chew but that you do not want them to chew AND create chew free zones where they can be without getting to anything that you do not want them to chew.
b. So put your valuable stuff away - chew proof the house - just like we child proof houses for children. If it is not accessible they can't chew on it.
c. Create a place where they can be unsupervised, with only safe things to chew on accessible - within reason.
d. Give them lots of things to chew on. They will chew. So fulfill that need in a fun safe way, kongs, ropes, etc. e. Play games that encourage the dog to use their mouth in fun but appropriate ways Tug o war (front to back only) Fetch, Catch, Bring me
f. Teach leave it

4. Barking

a. If the dog is barking at sounds/activity outside the house, respect the function - they are letting you know there is something, someone out there - and go check it out!! But then let them know that you are in charge and they don't need to bark anymore.
b. Limit how much they can see or hear. If the dog is over reactive then limit or modify the environment. Having music or the TV on can block some of the more common, routine noises, but not block the unusual or unexpected noise. Same with visual access to what is going on outside. Control and limit visual access if you need to.
c. Reward them for not barking.
d. Teach quiet, or settle
e. Teach speak on cue.

5. Biting/Mouthing

a. Say "ouch" really loud when they nail you. Most dogs don't automatically know that what they did hurt. They need to know it hurts. Most dogs do not want to hurt you.
b. Reward them for a soft mouth.
c. Play games to help them learn what a soft mouth is. Can be part of catch, fetch etc
d. Teach release as part of those games. Teach them control of their mouth.
e. Teach Leave it

6. Digging

a. Create a digging allow zone for the dog.
b. Supervise the dog when they are outside and not in the dig free zone, limiting opportunity to dig and an opportunity to …….
c. Teach leave it for those wonderful smelling things like worms, flowers etc.

7. Pees/Poops in the House

a. Supervision, supervision, supervision (you are the problem not the dog, when you have to go you have to go)
b. Learn the doggy signals for your dog (I have four - they are all different - still working on Tequila)
c. Trip train whether outside, box, confinement area. Take them consistently, predictably, and they will figure it out.
d. Create safe, no fail zones during training times if you can not supervise.
e. Teach them to ring a bell or some other obvious way to get your attention.

8. Eat poop/rocks

a. Again supervise supervise supervise
b. Limit opportunity. If there are no rocks they can not eat it, if there is no poop laying around they can not eat it.
c. Teach leave it so that you have time to pick up the poop before someone else gets to it.
d. Make sure they have a good balanced diet (poop eaters) and lots of safe large hard toys for rock eaters. ..........