Last updated Feb 29, 2004

What to do about the DOGGY THIEF

Young dog is a chronic thief, stealing things and running with them.
"Leave it" works, but only if they see him before he gets the item in his mouth.
What do you recommend to the student once the item is IN the dog's mouth?

HERE ARE YOUR ANSWERS!!

First to answer - Cathyyyyy !!!!!

"Whenever we talk about dog behavior, there are a couple of things that almost always come up, at least in the beginning classes. One of these things is that dogs do not generalize well.

It sounds like this particular dog totally understands "Leave it". That command tells him that the item is not his, and he cannot pick it up. He obeys that command when the owners see him before it gets in the mouth, but possibly to the dog, it no longer has meaning because he now has possession of the item. The picture, at least to the dog, is very different. These owners could do some work on "Drop it". Work on this with lots and lots of different things -- starting with his toys. "Drop it" for treats. Trade for treats. Trade for higher value items.

Teaching "Trade" to a novice dog owner:
I like to train the trade starting with some really yummy treat -- something that he will gladly exchange for whatever item he has. I advise people to start out training the trading game by using something the dog can have -- NOT an inappropriate item that you are trying to get him to stop stealing. I think it's best to use one of his more boring toys. Start out with his tennis ball or his chew rope. I show him that I have one of his higher value toys or a treat. When the dog realizes that you have something better, he drops his item (in your hand would be ideal, but that's another lesson), give him the trade item and you now have the ball. After he finishes the treat give him back the ball and do it again. Tell him what a wonderful boy he is and trade again. Doing it 3 or 4 times is great. If he is catching on, it's easy to run it into the ground by continuing to trade, but make yourself stop. End on a successful note. Do it later in the day a few times. When he has truly made the connection and you can predict with an 80% certainty that he will trade the item he has with yours, then you can add the "trade" command.

Do it using lots of different items, although don't use things that are dangerous to him or things that you really don't want him to have. Carol trains her dogs to trade keys, kleenex, money, etc. The key is to do it enough times in a safe and rewarding way to the dog that when he actually does have something in his mouth that he shouldn't have, you can trade him and he will opt for that as opposed to running the other way to get you to engage in a rousing game of "chase me".

This instruction does not go into supervising children to do this, or if you discover that your dog has some resource guarding issues. Both of those instances definitely require more instruction, and, especially with RG, some work with a professional dog trainer that specializes in canine behavior.

The behavior of this young dog's stealing practice also screams "Pay attention to me!" Lets all say the anthem together: "Behavior that gets rewarded, gets repeated." It sounds like this little guy is getting exactly what he wants by stealing various items and running, and I'd be willing to bet that the item in his mouth is just a catalyst to what the actual valued prize is: attention. And he's been playing this fun game because it works. What's more fun to a dog than being chased? He's being chased. He's getting attention. He's controlling the moment. If his stealing/running behavior suddenly stopped working, that behavior would most probably extinguish itself out very quickly. There would most likely be a few good runs thrown in at the end as a send off, but that would be it.

On a fun note, but still being able to control the situation, it may be well worth your while to teach this dog to chase you, or maybe even a tag game of some type. After all, he was never stealing to make you mad, but rather to have fun. Teach him the appropriate way to play with you and have fun. Cathy

And hot on her heels, Ann-Luise!!!

Train him to “drop-it”. When you catch the dog with something in his mouth, offer him a better alternative (favorite toy, treat) ~ inevitably he will drop a sock for a piece of cheese or his favorite toy, then just say “good drop it!” with lots of praise. This would be a good time to use the clicker, once he’s dropped the “bad” thing for the “good” thing. After awhile, he’ll know the command “drop-it”. We did exactly this with Wally. Make sure not to chase the dog around, because that will only add to his delight.

And MINUTES later, Nancy!!

I don't know what the answer is if the item the dog has is dangerous or of extreme value. I'll be anxious to see what should be done in emergent situations.

I would think the ultimate goal would be to teach the dog a "Drop it!" or "Out!" command.

In the meantime....

• Once the dog has something in it's mouth, as long as it isn't dangerous to the dog or extremely valuable to the person, the dog should be totally ignored.
  
  This will prevent the situation from turning into a game of "chase" or "keep away". Ideally, the dog will get bored and try to find something more fun and entertaining. If the item is something you'd like rather soon…
  
  
• Offer up something appropriate that's even better than the item the dog possesses! What dog wouldn't rather have something really, really exciting that their human possesses? Something squeaky, smelly, or highly coveted should catch the dog's attention.
  
  Use the action of the trade as an opportunity to teach "Drop it!" or "Out!" when the dog releases the original item. Whoo-hoo!!! High praise when the dog releases the original item. Then, follow-up by making sure the new item is just the greatest thing in the whole, wide world! Give the dog lots of praise and attention once the trade is made and the dog possesses the substitute item.

Carol... An aside regarding if the item the dog has is dangerous or of extreme value: Dewey is so sensitive, if I raise my voice, he’d stop on a dime, cringe and cower or run into his crate if possible. This would be successful for us. I realize that many dogs, especially puppies, would think this a wonderful part of the game. So, hopefully, I have that situation covered. However, since the next one will probably not be like this, I look forward to the answer! Z

And Lisa !!

So VERY sorry for lagging behind the frontrunners...I feel like the last team crossing the finish line in the Iditarod!

This will be short and sweet. First explain that stealing and running is NORMAL puppy behavior. They do it with each other and it is one of the most fun puppy games on the planet! They simply want you to play--they are not being evil. Solving the problem is fairly simple...teach the dog to trade and bring things to you. The mere act of giving you things in exhange for a treat reverses the puppy's natural tendency to run and the puppy learns that not running can be rewarding, too. Lisa

My reply:
(I always write my answer before I get yours.)

What to do about the DOGGY THIEF ................. - Teaching a WILLING Exchange ........................ * The key here is *willing*!

All of our Ruffians have covered how to teach "drop it" - so I'm going to jump to "bring it" with a deliver to hand:

Teach your dog to deliver a variety of types of items to your hand. Paper towel tubes, plastic liter bottles or discarded envelopes (folded so they are easy to pick up) are especially good items to start with and gradually move on to more difficult and eventually "hot" items (those the animal would rather keep.) Teach your dog the names of items and how to locate them when they are hidden, so you can send your dog to find your car keys or that pesky TV remote!

Note! If your dog ever picks up a dangerous item, don't lose your head. You've taught a willing trade - and to your dog, a sharp knife is no different than a ball point pen. Give your cheerful commands like you always do.

A clicker is perfect for teaching this skill - I've written the teaching steps with the verbal marker, "Yes" as for a beginning class student, but particularly if you are counseling someone with a resource guarder or expert thief, I highly recommend the clicker instead.

Note: At NO time is the item thrown. It is placed - there is no chase involved. The last thing you add when teaching a retrieve is the throw.

How to start the trading game with a chronic thief (and how to teach a retrieve to a non-retrieving type!):

• Go get an empty toilet paper roll (or some other *non-toy* neutral item that the dog would be likely to want to pick up, but not likely to want to keep) and a handful of reeeeally good treats (cheese or meat if she's really committed to keeping what she has in her mouth.) Don't let her see the treats, put them behind your back.
  
  
• Sit on the kitchen floor (or other small room where the dog can't go too far away) and place the cardboard roll on the floor in front of you. When she picks it up, say "Yes!" (or click) and immediately present her with a piece of wonderful smelly irresistible treat. She will drop the paper roll to take the treat (she can't hold it and eat the treat). Then wait and ignore her. When she gives up staring at you or offering a zillion other things she knows hoping for more treats, she'll probably remember the paper roll and pick it up again. Say "Yes!" and give her another treat. (If she doesn't drop the item or won't come to you to take the food, just drop the treat on the floor.) Repeat several times until she realizes that picking up the item is making you say "yes" and causing you to produce great stuff. You aren't stealing what she has - in fact you don't even appear to want it. You are rewarding her for letting go of it, and giving her another chance to pick it up again. She'll probably come closer with each repetition in anticipation of the reward. The goal: to have the dog pick the item up purposefully and with confidence and drop it when it hears "yes" (or click) to take the food.
  
  
• The next step would be adding the hold. The goal is to have the dog wait for the "yes" or click before releasing the item. The hold is just a pause before releasing the item. Extend the time *very* gradually and on a variable time interval.
  
  
• When she picks up the item and looks at you (now anticipating the predictable pattern of positive events) quietly slip your free hand under the roll AS you click and then present the treat with your other hand, so you effectively trade food for releasing the item into your hand. Do not pull the item from her mouth - cup your hand lightly under it, just close enough to keep it from falling to the floor when she lets go. The goal is not to TAKE it from her, but to have her willingly let it drop into your hand. Say "YES!" as the paper roll is released to your hand and jackpot with multiple treats. Don't progress to the next level until the dog is quick and confident at this level. The goal: the dog has made the connection that targeting your hand with the item is what is making you say "Yes!" and is offering the behavior willingly.
  
  
• Next, don't produce the food until after the delivery. Don't indicate that food is available, just wait until the dog picks up the item, put your hand out, mark the delivery with the "Yes/click" and THEN produce the reward. (I leave food in a shallow dish on a counter or table so it is easily accessible but not on me personally.)
  
  
• Change the picture. Kneel, stand up, sit in a chair. This is also a good point to start prompting a "sit" before you ask the dog to release the item to your hand. Some dogs can't do two things at once and will drop the item when you give the command to sit - a minimal visual prompt is helpful (stand facing with your food closed in your hand under your chin rather than giving a hand signal or verbal cue to sit) until the dog gets the idea that you want her to hold it AND sit.
  
  
• Now place the item in varying orientations around you and at slightly increased distances from you - the goal is to have her turn TOWARD you and eventually take a step toward you to bring the item to your hand. Your target hand should be stationary and centered in a consistent position, not reaching toward her. Each time, say "Yes" and exchange for food. Reward even if it doesn't quite hit your hand as long as she is trying. Jackpot for direct "hits." (If most of the deliveries are sloppy, you've probably raised your criteria too quickly - back up a few steps). As the dog's confidence at this level increases, it's a good plan to include a sit delivery at this point. Do not throw the item - this is not a chase game, it's a simple retrieve of a stationary object.
  
  
• When you are at least 80% sure that she is going to pick up the item AND target your hand with some level of accuracy, add verbal cues. It doesn't matter what they are, but they should be cheery. Personally, I use "What do you have?" (when I see them with something) or "Get it" if I'm indicating an item to be retrieved. "Bring it" (retrieve cue), "Can I have it?" (for putting it in my hand) and "Thank you" (for the release). (Benny also knows "Let's throw it away" - you might add a "take it to (insert name/indicate person)", "put it" - (indicate place - like on counter or table.)
  

Don't progress to more difficult items (metal, hard to hold or pick up, etc.) or a higher value item until she really understands the game and offers a variety of neutral items willingly. In the beginning stages do not do exchanges with any item that has a past history of hoarding or playing keep away. The operant word here is WILLING exchange. You want your dog's response to be automatic and fluent before upping the ante with an item that the dog will feel conflicted about wanting to give up.

Some dogs are shocked and maybe a little suspicious that you are rewarding them for picking something up, especially if you have been doing a lot of hollering "leave it!" If your dog is reluctant to interact with the item, don't pressure her to get it or do more than pick it up and oooh and aaahh over it to pique her curiosity and then drop it within reach. Ignoring may be the best way to a cautious dog to even sniff the item. If she shows any interest, say "yes" and reward. Play 101 things to do with a box to help your dog learn that experimenting is a good thing. If necessary, you may use a toy. But ultimately it is better to start with a neutral item with no previously learned association.

The clicker is particularly powerful in teaching this skill to cautious dogs, as it is so much more precise and takes the emotion out of the information.

The above exercise and the thief ...
Important: Any time your dog picks something up, congratulate her, back away and call her to you for the trade, don't pursue her to get it back. Be aware of how your body language affects her ability to move toward you. Leaning forward is a predatory posture and few dogs are able to move toward anything that looks like it is going to pounce! Back away and call "bring it here!" with a sincere "thank you" when she does and occasionally a run to the kitchen for a treat. Once the rules of this game are understood, move to a variable schedule for a variety of types of rewards!

Teach your puppy to trust and respect you. Your dog needs to learn to give up all items willingly, happily and immediately. It's important to never growl and chase her when she gets things she shouldn't have - keep off-limits items out of reach as best you can and trade when she does get something. Pretty soon she'll come find you and say "look what I found!" when she has something instead of sneaking off to chew it up. The day your dog carefully delivers a knife to your hand instead of running out the door with it, you'll be glad you taught this exercise!

I have a brag regarding this exercise. Shiner and I have been going to school to sit in on a 2nd grade class a couple times a week for several weeks now. She has a passion for crayons, pencils, erasers, ALL those great things you find on a classroom floor. By the end of every visit I have a pile of offered "finds" that she has brought me. One day she brought me a paper clip and a PIECE OF OLD POPCORN!"

Mother's little thief could turn into mother's little helper!