Last updated Jan 23, 2004

HOW WOULD YOU ANSWER THIS QUESTION?

I have a 4-month old yellow lab which has had just a little training;
he needs a lot more of course. I would like to talk to you regarding your methods,
recommendations, feelings towards choke chains and other devices, etc.
My goal is for a very well behaved companion dog.
I am willing and eager to put in the time required to accomplish this goal.

HERE ARE YOUR ANSWERS!!

First to answer - LISA !!!!!

Thank you for asking about our training programs! Your dog is quite fortunate to have a human who understands the importance of a little basic training *S*

Our philosophy is to use training methods that foster a relationship between dog and handler that is based on trust and respect. In a nutshell, we teach our students to bring out the best in their dogs by setting them (the dogs) up to succeed and rewarding the behavior we want. We use a variety of motivators including, but not limited to, food treats, toys and extra special praise/ear scratches/belly rubs.

The ideal training collar is a simple flat buckle collar or a premier collar with a limited slip design. However, there are times when a little "power steering" for boisterous dogs is helpful. In those cases we recommend a head-halter design, such as a gentle leader or a prong collar and we teach our students how to use them humanely.

We discourage the use of choke chains for this simple reason: The choke chain is part of a training methodology based on correcting the dog when it is not doing what we want it to do. The positive reinforcement training we teach strives to reward what we want, as opposed to correcting what we don't want.

If you like to read, I can recommend some authors whose training philospophy is identical to ours....

AND KIM !!!

How fun, a lab with an owner who wants to work with him!! As far as our methods, we use employ reward based based training. Basically, we reward desired behavior and try to ignore unwanted behavior. We show the dog, by luring into position, what it is we want and reward with treats and praise vs waiting for the dog to make a "mistake" and correcting it. We do not use choke chains or physically force the dogs into position. As the dogs learn the behaviors we begin to phase out much of the treats.

A 4' or 6' lead and a regular buckle collar is all that is needed to start. Sometimes equipment recommendations (ie the GL) may be made after we see the dog and handler at work.

Clicker training is an absolutly fabulous method. It engages the dog in the training process by letting him really use his brain. We find that dogs, once they understand the clicker, learn faster and become better problems solvers. No, you do not need to carry a clicker with you for the rest of your life. The clicker is simply a tool to help shape new behaviors. Once the behavior is shaped, it is given and name and the clicker is phased out.

As far as recommendations are concerned, starting with a puppy preschool or headstart class is where to begin. If concerned about making a commitment to class, due to previous bad experinces, he may want to sit in on a puppy class to see how it works. - Kim

My reply:
(I wish I'd gotten Lisa's before I hit send on mine, I would have used hers instead!)

Diamonds in the Ruff is a positive, motivational training school. We focus on building communication thru teaching, not forcing and making. Yes, we use food rewards in class. We also stress becoming a leader your dog can trust and will look to for direction.

We use whole family, dog-friendly, reward based training. Our training curriculum does not focus on collar corrections or physical placement, so choke chains or electronic collars are not equipment that we recommend or use. Occasionally there are very large or very physically boisterous "foot ball player" type dogs whose owners benefit from a little power steering -- to keep the 100+lb Great Dane's owner from skidding across the floor in her chair *S* in which case a Gentle Leader or prong collar may be recommended. All puppies start class in a plain buckle collar.

We have three beginning classes, divided by age: Puppy Preschool (under 4 1/2 mo), Puppy Kindergarten (under 6 mo) and Headstart (older pups and adults). The second level class is the Prep class where we introduce clicker training.

I hope we will get to meet you and your pup. If you would like to observe a class prior to registering, you are welcome, just let me know!

Follow-up email:

My answers to his questions inserted in the text below:

>Thanks for the information. I had a bad experience with a choke chain and
>don't want to use it again. My "little" guy would pull hard and jump around
>occasionally on a walk. He hurt his throat. Yes, it was probably my fault
>and it won't ever happen again. My vet said to try the gentle leader.
>Within 5 minutes (really) the pulling and lunging behavior during a walk
>ceased. Now, we're ready to get down to "nice" training. My existing
>trainer insists on choke chains, so I don't think it will work out. That is
>why I am talking to you.

Good for you for looking out for the best interest of your baby! The Gentle Leader is a wonderful tool - I'm glad your vet recommended it. Since we don't use collars to inflict punishment, I think it will be just what you are looking for in "nice" training philosophy.

> I intend to continue with "lessons" for at least a year or until the
>puppy is a perfect gentleman.

"Perfect" comes with lots of practice and maturity. And it's a 'maintainance agreement' for the rest of your pup's life. Most people attend a beginning class and Prep, and many continue on to the Finishing School class or other specialty class depending on their goals.

> What are the pros and cons of clicker training. Do I have to carry a
>clicker for the rest of my puppy's life?

The clicker is a great tool for teaching your dog to think and problem solve in a totally positive way. No leash corrections or shoving. Most of your training sessions will be off-leash (only using the leash when you are in an unfenced or distracting area. It is a means to an end, not the end itself. You will use the clicker to teach and perfect. Once the behavior is on cue and the dog is fluent following the cue at a variety of distraction levels, you will no longer need the clicker. The clicker simply tells the dog he has performed well enough to earn the reward (which initially will be food, later "real life" rewards.) (more info on our website: http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/clickertraining.html

>Maybe we (puppy and I) should visit you to talk.

I'm happy to get together with you or you are welcome to observe a class. There are pages and pages of information on our website at www.diamondsintheruff.com. There is also an online registration form. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! -Carol

More:

>Hi Carol -
>It was nice to meet you yesterday. I very much enjoyed sitting in Diane's
>class at 11:00. I was very impressed with her. She included me in the
>group and solicited my questions.

>I would like to start lessons with Bobby soon. It looked like the class I
>saw was about his level - - I think that was the "Headstart" course.

>A couple of items will affect when I can start:
>1) I need to sever my agreement with my existing trainer. This will
>probably be expensive for me since the agreement stresses the non-refundable
>nature of the lump payment in advance for 8 private lessons (we just finished #4).

>2) I need to find an overnight kennel for several days/nights the second
>week of February and mid-March. I think I can do this.

>Here are a couple of points about Bobby:
>a) He has had very little exposure to other dogs and gets VERY excited when
>meeting them. It seems like he never calms down.

>b) Similarly, he gets excited when meeting people but eventually gets used
>to them - especially if they act calmly.

>c) Bob is quite well mannered at home and is a calm companion.

>d) He rides quietly in the car.

>e) He knows the very beginnings of sit, down, stay, & stand. He
>demonstrates them nicely for me in a quiet area, but forgets them in an area
>that has distractions.

>f) I would like to help Bobby become a very polite companion. He should
>learn an unequivocal come, be able to work off-leash, not run away, be
>polite meeting other people & animals, etc.

["UNEQUIVOCAL" COME ... don't we all wish for that? *G*]

>I am sure these are goals that most of your "students" share. I am eager to
>help him learn and willing to work with him.

My reply:

I'm glad you enjoyed the classes and are planning to join us!

I realize you are kind of in a bind in trying to get out of your current arrangement gracefully, I hope that the trainer will honor some sort of satisfaction guarantee and refund the balance, although it doesn't appear likely. If it helps to know, registration checks are not deposited until after the first week of class, in case of cancellations or transfers - it's easier on the bookkeeping to give a check back if we need to. At any rate your registration check won't be deposited until after the 2nd and we would be happy to hold it a few days longer if need be.

As far as a place to leave Bobby, I can't say enough nice things about Play n' Stay dog daycare. They are a bit of a drive for you, but well worth it. It is primarily a day care, but they do offer limited overnight boarding. http://www.playnstay.com/

Everything you've said about Bobby sounds like a very normal, typical, friendly lab pup. Remember he's a baby and impulse control comes with maturity! Enjoy his puppyhood, it's all too short. Let me know if I have your dates correct and I will add you and Bobby to the class roster for February. - Carol