Dealing with Fear

DEALING WITH FEAR

The most important thing to remember when dealing with fear is that the dog must never be forced, held or made to "face his fear." Panic can be permanent. Terror can be irreparable. "Coping" equals "flooding." A tight leash or being trapped when afraid creates sensitivity. Over-intensifying results in SENSITIZING. Sensitizing increases the negative reaction to the original stimulus and can create global fear. The dog must not be overwhelmed.

Fear is reinforced by relief.
Every time the pup goes over threshold, escapes and feels relief, we are classically conditioning the dog to be afraid. Many pet owners are given the advice "your dog needs more socialization" and they deliberately set out to do just that - and unintentionally make things worse. Socialization isn't about putting the dog in scary situations to help the dog "get over it."

Think "Exposure Training"
Allow the dog to observe the "scary thing" at a distance that the dog can handle. He should notice it, but shows no signs of discomfort. Allow the interested dog to investigate and move closer as he feels safe enough, while allowing him to retreat and re-approach at his own pace without pressure. The worst thing that can happen is for a pup is to run out of leash and feel trapped and unable to escape. Make it a priority to keep the leash constantly slack. Move with him. Be cheerful and confident and quietly supportive. Don't coddle or sound worried. Don't scold or force!

FEARFULNESS OF THINGS

Even well-socialized adolescent dogs get spooked by the darndest things! A leaf bag, a wheelbarrow that wasn't in the backyard yesterday. The very same fire hydrant or mailbox that they've passed on every walk is suddenly a monster!! Many owners wonder if there's something wrong with their pup's eyesight. This is a normal phase. It will pass. KEEP YOUR LEASH SLACK! Your dog must always trust that he can escape to safety if he needs to.

FEARFULNESS OF PEOPLE

Awareness that there are people outside your "pack" - familiar people and strangers - occurs at about 5 months. The previously social pup may suddenly become more cautious. Weak spots in the dog's early socialization history will become glaring during this time. He may be fine with women, but not men; great with adults but terrified of children. The under-socialized pup may become unable to cope or even hysterical. How you handle it could affect your dog for the long term.

Don't put him in the predicament of baiting him with food while having to endure proximity to get it.
This reinforces "touch and go" - dart in and run out (relief). If a dog is worried about you, toss a treat just out of reach and then retreat as the dog reaches to pick it up. Toss another and step away as he moves in your direction to pick it up. The dog never retreats, because YOU are increasing the space. Soon he is following you to pick up the next piece. There is no social pressure as he ventures closer each time - his comfort level rises and his fear fades.

This handout may be reprinted in its entirety for distribution free of charge and with full credit given:
© CAROL A. BYRNES "DIAMONDS IN THE RUFF" Training for Dogs & Their People -
ditr_training @ hotmail.com - http://www.diamondsintheruff.com

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