Continuing Ed - Topic one - part two, first week orientation & prep for wk 2
Review the profiles - note the scores, plan for optimum seating next week.

Answers to the Follow-up Q's from the first homework lesson:

What is a reward?
Anything your dog wants badly enough to work to earn it. VARIETY is key. Food, games, toys, etc. A reward does not appear until AFTER the behavior. The reward is contingent on the dog offering the correct behavior cued by the trainer. The behavior drives the reward.

What is a bribe?
A bribe is offered BEFORE the behavior. "If you do "X" I will give you "Y". The dog then has the opportunity to decide if the reward is worth doing "X". Trainers often unknowingly reward refusal or hesitation by pulling out a better offer when the dog fails to respond.

What is a lure?
A lure is used to entice the dog into the desired physical position. It is a temporary phase of training designed to "get" the behavior so you can mark and then reward it. The lure is used to show the dog what about his behavior will be rewarded. Once the dog assumes the behavior readily, you must fade the lure and any physical or environmental prompts that may accidently get connected to the cue.

What is the very best reward you can give your dog?
The lowest value reward your dog will work to earn. (This can vary with the environment and distraction level.) Grade your rewards. Know what your dog values and reserve the great ones for jackpots. Let your dog know ‘how good' his response was, by establishing a perceivable difference in the level of reward. If we start off with the very best rewards for very simple behaviors, then we have nothing better to give when the dog becomes more skilled or has a break through. Of course, we balance this advice with the fact that most students lack ANY imagination when deciding what treats to use -they bring those HORRID big dry biscuits) and are STINGY!

What is a jackpot?
A jackpot is a surprise bonus "woo-hoo" reward. It should be "better" or "more" -- it must be something that makes the dog go "WOW! How do I make THAT happen again?" Give jackpots for training break-through's, ah-ha moments and extra effort. Don't waste the "good stuff" on everyday average-level work. Reserve favorite and high value rewards for high-quality work and jackpots. If the behavior was "wow-worthy" you might break out his all-time favorite what-ever to celebrate!

Why should I move to a variable schedule of reward?
The reason for moving to a variable schedule is, if done correctly, it strengthens behavior. If done incorrectly, behavior deteriorates. Why? Because most people don't reward on a variable schedule, they just get stingy and reward less often. Rather than rewarding randomly, they reduce the frequency. Behavior that doesn't get rewarded, fades. Most people want to move to a variable schedule for the wrong reason: they are in a hurry to "get rid of the food."

When do I move to a variable schedule of reward?
The variable schedule begins when the dog understands the concept and the behavior is on cue, during the "perfecting" process. "Differential reinforcement" means better rewards for better responses and average rewards for average responses. There might be no reward for slow or poor performance, but a chance to "try again." The trainer might ask for a series of 5 behaviors and give five treats in succession after the completion or a whole handful with a celebration if the behavior series was above average. The jackpot is a very important part of the random (variable) reward. The dog shouldn't feel cheated or unrewarded, but because of rich and varied rewards, recognize that -while there may be dry spells between rewards- they are well worth the wait!

Define the following:
On cue - "On cue" means the behavior happens every time the dog hears or sees the cue.

Stimulus control - "Stimulus control" means the dog performs only the cued behavior and never gives a different behavior when cued, and the dog doesn't offer the behavior when he isn't cued.

Latency - Latency is the time delay between the cue and the response. (Hesitation, pause, lack of confidence.)

Zero latency - "Zero latency" is instantaneous response to a cue.

Latent learning - Cathy had a great definition of this: "You are teaching the dog something, or trying to. He's not quite getting it. You stop for awhile and come back to it a few hours later or the next day and he performs the behavior beautifully. That is latent learing - kind of like a "dormant potential" that emerges, given a bit of time to sink in.

Week one, part two:
THE WAGGING END OF THE LEASH
Interpreting what the Personality Profile Scores mean

Step one - understand what they mean yourself so you can use the scores to best help the students succeed with the personality type they own, and set them up to succeed by seating them to their best advantage in the classroom.
Step two - explain to your students what the scores mean, so they can better understand their dogs and apply the best training/management strategies.

ABC or D ... Assertive, Bold, Cautious, Compliant or has Difficulty Dealing with Stress
.....................- (Dysfunctional -from lack of socialization/genetics?)
No, don't call them dysfunctional! *S* Most important when talking about the scores is to keep the descriptions positive. One is not "better" or "bad" - they are what they are.

Some scores are typical for the breed - Goldens are often "C's" and a proper terrier more often an "A-B". Every human student has a different personality, a different way of interpreting the lessons you teach. The same is true with the dogs. Each personality type carries it's own strengths and weaknesses. Generations of heredity color how each dog views the world and responds to it.

Take note of extreme A or extreme D scores, but don't gasp and look horrified when you talk to the owners! "Buffy has led a pretty secluded puppyhood and may find it a little overwhelming next week, so I'd like you to arrive early, sit here, bring ultra smelly treats, don't feed her dinner, expect that she may be too nervous to eat ... it's very likely that she may blow up and bark, when she does, do this." Knowing that you've seen dogs like theirs before, that you are ready to help them and care about their family and their dog is key. Many owners are very worried about whether their dog is going to embarrass them in front of the other students.

LOOK beyond the numbers, to the words they have circled on the high A&D scores. If the three D's are controllable, satisfying & willing-to-please, that can be a GOOD thing.

The scores:
A/B dogs are bold, outgoing, and confident. They require clear boundaries and a confident leader.
C/D dogs are softer and more sensitive - they require rich socialization and patient training.
B/C dogs are the easiest to teach of all - they are confident and willing to please.

Keeping it positive.
One thing that's very important to model for our students is focusing on the behavior we want to happen (the goal and/or solution) instead of the problem or problem situation. "I want to teach him to sit for petting" vs "I want him to stop jumping up." Encourage your students to visualize what they want to see the dog do, not what they want it to stop: think "sit!" not "don't jump!"

Be sensitive to the dog's scores and how it relates to the dog's behavior in class. By knowing the scores, you will have a better feel for why the dog acts the way it does. A C/D dog will not feel comfortable lying down too close to other dogs. It will be uncomfortable if loomed over. It may become reactive if its space is invaded. Allow the cautious dog the opportunity to sniff the backside of a "safe" calm dog but don't pressure it to do so. B types may lack tolerance for frustration. They often make all kinds of ugly noise out of frustration, not aggression. Watch for bending elbows, approach & retreat. Tight leash and elevating can trigger an outburst of frustration. Putting a frustrated dog in another room can sometimes make him worse, not better.

Be familiar with canine developmental stages. The dog's age and social experience is a vital piece of information for evaluating the nature of the behavior you are seeing.

Terms to avoid:

Avoid "dominant or alpha" - instead: 'A types' are strong willed, status seeking or running for higher office. The students who think they know what "dominant" means are probably wrong and those who aren't sure, might picture an aggressive dog - or think the descriptions are about dog-to-dog stuff instead of how these scores affect the human-dog relationship. Assertive is not aggressive. Explaining who their dog "is" will help them determine how they are going to work with their dog's particular personality type and strengthen their relationship.

Avoid "shy" or "submissive" - instead: 'C types' are cautious or sensitive. Submissive implies fearful. Which is why most people whose dogs show calming signals and curving C-shapes, believe the dog has "been beaten" by a previous owner. Many dogs are born that way and it is a coping mechanism using simple appeasement postures, not a response to a traumatic event or mistreatment. A lot of herding breeds, GSDs & Dobes are head shy - not because they've been hit, but because they are visually reactive to loom/reach postures.

Avoid "blowing you off" - a negative label that suggests the dog is consciously choosing to be willfully defiant. Looking away can be simply due to the distraction level or could be a calming signal. Suggest alternative ways to increase motivation. Encourage hand feeding. Create a work ethic by rationing what the dog wants. NILIF: work to earn attention, games, privileges, etc. "Be a leader your dog wants to look up to. Teach a specific cue for attention and use it when his mind wanders."

Dogs who blow up at other dogs are "reactive" or "worried about their personal space" or "frustrated" - not "aggressive." They are also not "bad dogs" - just stressed dogs. Remember to be very sensitive to the fact that owners of disruptive dogs are embarrassed and worried about their dogs. "Let's all help Buffy out, she is really very worried. Let's all be sure that our dogs don't stare at her or get too close. She's just trying to 'explode' them away when she yells like that because she doesn't feel safe." Now you aren't mad at them or critical of Buffy. You are on their side and sensitive to their needs. "Bosco is really frustrated because he can't just bowl right over there and say hi - since he can't always do what he wants, this is a great training opportunity ..." (give directions on redirecting Bosco and keeping him busy, let them know we can set up a gate if necessary so he can't see what frustrates him so much, etc etc.)

Being put behind a baby gate covered with blankets in another room must be handled carefully. "Let's see if we can help her feel a little bit safer and not so overwhelmed." "There, Buffy, is that better? Now those scary dogs can't stare at you." Let them know the plan: "We'll let her feel safer in here until the rest of the dogs calm down and then we'll gradually integrate her into the rest of the group when she feels more comfortable. And if she doesn't - you get your own private room!" *big smile* Be sensitive that many people go home feeling like they have disrupted the class, that they are disliked by the instructor or have been banned from the classroom. Many are panicked that they have a dangerous dog. Be sure to include them - it's easy to forget them when they are around the corner and out of sight.

Why is that dog still intact? Encourage spaying and neutering and discourage backyard breeding by all means, but respect the educated decisions of the few who may actually be responsible breeders with a dog who is worthy of passing on its genes.

Your assignment:

Score one of your own dogs (or all your dogs and compare the scores) using the confirmation profile that our students fill out.

Give us your score and describe your dog's personality as you would a student's dog, using the scores. I'll post the scores and the description and we'll try and guess whose scores go with whose dogs.

Your student intros have given you the following information:
Given this limited info (you haven't met the dogs yet) what are your first impressions of these dogs and handlers, and how will you help them better understand the dog they live with and what suggestions will you give them for working at home and directions for entering week two? As the dogs arrive, what will you be watching for, how will you approach, what options for seating might you consider?

Dog #1 - Scores: 9, 6, 1, 0 - Irish Terrier, 1 year old, NM. Young couple, 2 kids, 8 & 10 year old boys.
Got as a pup, jumps up, barks at strangers & other dogs, won't come when called, high energy, mouthy biting.
'A' scores are independent, demanding, exciteable, dominant, controlling, frustrating, intense, assertive, stubborn.

Dog #2 - Scores: 0, 0, 10, 6 - Golden Retriever, 4 mo, SF. Widowed man in his 60s, gruff and tall, grandkids visit a lot.
Adopted from shelter, jumps up, barks at strangers & other dogs, won't come when called, high energy, mouthy biting. 'D' scores are clingy, submissive, anxious, voice sensitive, compliant, willing-to-please.

Dog #3 - Scores: 1, 5, 9, 1 - Pit bull, 6 mo, NM. 2 male roommates in their 20's, college students.
Got at 8 weeks, kept at home til had all its shots, jumps up, barks at strangers & other dogs, won't come when called, high energy, mouthy biting. 'A' score is self-assured. 'D' score is willing-to-please.

Dog #4 - Scores: 2, 0, 8, 6- Springer Spaniel, 5 mo, M. (not planning to N) Single mother, 3 kids, 10, 12, 15.
Just got last week from breeder, kennel raised, barks at strangers, won't come when called, high energy, mouthy biting. 'A' score is independent. 'D' scores are nervous, anxious, passive, controllable, voice sensitive, touch sensitive.

Dog #5 - Scores: 2, 5, 9, 0 - Red Heeler/Beagle x, 7 mo, SF. Young couple in their 20's, college students.
Got at 6 weeks, kept at home til had all its shots, barks at strangers & other dogs, won't come when called, high energy, mouthy biting. 'A' scores are intense and bold.